Thursday, June 2, 2022

Blog # 38 Dated: 02 June 2022 (See Blog # 74 for details contained in this Blog)

 Dear, ..........,

Namaskar. I am here again to describe our journey from Kargil to Leh. First a correction. In yesterday's blog I had mentioned Baltal top between Sonamarg and Kargil. Yes Baltal comes on the way but we have to go up further to reach the top. What I called the highest point here as Baltal Top, is actually called Zojila. Now about the journey from Kargil to Leh. The distance is around 220 Kms. So we had to start early. The truck had a long and wide seat behind the driver's seat. We three got accommodated in that seat. It was comfortable seating. I had carried a carton (called peti) of apples, with me from Srinagar. We all including the driver started consuming the apples as soon as we left Kargil. For first ten kilometers or so of the journey was uphill. On the way up, we found the Indianoil local office. I had a reference for an officer there. (My elder brother was the boss of the officer incharge there.) We stopped there and the officer was very courteous. He offered all help but we needed none. While moving in this area we noticed small habitations by the side of the road. Soon we  reached the top of the hill. We found a large flat level plateau and a very good linear road. On both sides of the road, we noticed endless barren/stony vastness.  Every now and then we would observe some habitation along the road. There we noticed long walls of stone about one to two feet wide and three to four feet in height. All the stones were inscribed with " OM MANI PADME HUM", Loosely translated it means -   Hail to the Jewel in the Lotus. These stone walls with inscription cut into stone tablets has religious significance for the Buddhists living in and around Leh.  We found that the abundance of these walls increased as we were moving towards Leh.  Also at all the highest points on the road, there would be a small round stone structure with a cotton fabric flag with the same mantra written on the fabric fluttering at the top of the structure. Then there were long lines of buntings made from fabric starting from the top of the stone structure and stretching out in all directions. Each end would be terminated and fixed to the ground.  Each of the bunting had the mantra written on it. I was told that when the buntings would flutter in the wind, the message/mantra written on the fabric would reach God and ensure the welfare of the person/persons who had put the buntings. 

We pushed on further. At some places we would have to go down the hill. At one such place, as we were going down the hill, we could see about a dozen turns of the road. From the top the zig zag road sight was simply superb and very picturesque. We moved further. We were still on the road running at higher altitude. On the right hand side, deep down the slopes we noticed a village called Laama Yeeru. We could see a monastery with clay brick house all around. The sight from the top was wonderful. I wanted to go down the hill and see the place and meet the people face to face. But it could not be. The simplicity of the inhabitants was narrated to me by a person in Leh, who had been to this village a few years earlier. He told me that he stayed at a place very near a small building which was designated as a single teacher school. Every  morning a person in Buddhist robes would come to the school at about 9 AM. He would sweep the rooms with a broom. Then at 10 AM, he would ring the school bell. No student would come to the school. He would wait for the students. Since none would come, he would do meditation all day. In the evening at 4 PM, he would again ring the bell and then go home after locking the place. He would do it every day except on Sundays. When asked to explain what he was doing, he replied that he was being paid by the Government and in spite of his persuasion, no parent would send their child to the school. He said that he was doing his duty.

Evening time at dusk, we reached Leh Bus Stand. We could find coolies here - a contrast with what we had faced in Kargil on arrival. By the time we reached Leh, all the apples had been consumed. The driver wanted some when the journey was completed. He said that he needed it for his family here. Since he was a Kashmiri Muslim, I asked him whether his family was in Kashmir or in Leh. He said that he has one family in Kashmir and the other one in Leh. 

We checked into the Dak Bungalow which was located a short distance from the Bus Stand. The Ladakhi programme producer with us, had relatives living in Leh. He therefore did not stay with us. He promised to be with us next day. We had our meals in the Dak Bungalow and slept soundly - thanks to the tiring journey. 

I will leave you there and then tomorrow, I will detail more about how we spent the days in Leh. Bye.


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